Colored gemstones are initially judged by their color and unlike diamonds not their brilliance or cut. This is particularly true with emerald, ruby, and sapphire since they are seldom cut with American style meet point faceting techniques. Meet point faceting is a cutting technique based on accurate angles to produce the best optics for each gemstone species.  Almost all rubies, emeralds, and sapphires are cut commercially less concern for light return but rather maximize the yield of the expensive rough stones. Generally commercial cut stones are polished to 14K diamond grit or less. American style faceting in contrast is usually polished at 50K diamond or higher. Modern oxides are in common use by custom cutters and provide a polish similar to 100K diamond grit.

Although gemstones with meet point faceting clearly have a better cut over commercial stones there is a mistake I often see when people are shopping for gemstones. Don’t forget the color! Color is the number one criterion for judging colored gemstones. Our eyes naturally gravitate to the brilliant gemstone on the counter but brilliance will make light colored gemstones look better than reality. Turn the stone on its back or look at it from the side to get a better gauge of the actual body color of the gemstone without the cut affecting your perception. Clarity and brilliance is important but should never outweigh color. Color is always the highest percent of cost in any gemstone. After you’ve found a few gemstones with the best color then go and evaluate them for clarity, cut, and brilliance. You don’t need to sacrifice brilliance or clarity but it should not be the first thing to look for.